It's odd how a recipe can vanish almost completely from the culinary repertoire of one country yet continue to be eaten and enjoyed in another. Sometimes it will even get re-imported as an exotic ...

Whether cooked into a sweet paste for cheese or simply poached with vanilla, these quince treats bring warmth to the crisp, dark days of autumn We have returned from California to winter in London.

I share my recipe today for this Portuguese/Spanish speciality, best served with a strong cheese. Membrillo originated around the 4th century and as quince is high in pectin, you need no binding ...